Tuesday, 7th October 2008

Visiting Alderney

Visiting Alderney is, in many ways like going back 50 years or so. Nobody appears to be in a hurry, although some probably are.There is a wide remit of business based on the island, including Internet-based companies.

For the visitor, however, there is no sense of the rush and stresses of working lives. The people who live in Alderney give the impression of being extremely laid back. They all seem to have two jobs, but take this in their stride.

This impression contributes to the island’s appeal for the visitor. It is a great place to amble around, not really doing much, which is what holidays are all about for many people.

The capital of Alderney is St Anne’s, a small town with a comprehensive array of shops, pubs and restaurants. There are narrow cobbled streets and the atmosphere is such that one is tempted to walk in the road. However, there are cars around and the locals must get weary of avoiding pedestrians.

Out of town, there is no shortage of beaches and many of them are wonderfully sandy and quiet. Walking is a pleasure here, the landscape not being too arduous and with minimal traffic. The countryside is of the rambling variety and you are never for from the sea. A notable feature of the surroundings is the string of Victorian forts, built to combat the threat from France. They were never used in anger, but their construction shaped the island in more ways than one. For one thing, the influx of building workers gave the population a boost at a time when it was short in numbers.

The quarries were busy providing the stone for the buildings and a railway was built to carry it around. At the same time, the enormous breakwater was built at Braye harbour, designed to shelter the British fleet.It was to have a twin on the other side of the bay, but this was never constructed Again, though the navy came to the area for exercises when the French fleet had massed at Cherbourg, the breakwater was never really needed.

Today, it provided protection from the ocean, while the simple act of walking out to the end is a must-do for the visitor.

Alderney’s airport is just outside St. Anne’s. You might be met by a hire car, taxi or even a tractor, but day trippers can quite easily walk into town.

And, at last - after several years without a ferry link to the island -

Alderney has re-established a vital and frequent passenger sea link with nearby France and Guernsey.

High-speed passenger ferry Victor Hugo will bring holidaymakers via Dielette or Cherbourg, and Guernsey to Alderney at extremely low fares. The service operates from April until 30 September

The people of Alderney hope that more air and ferry connections, combined with more events and celebrations - including 800 years of independence - will provide a major boost to the island’s tourism sector. A busy diary of events, an excellent choice of accommodation in small family-run hotels and guest houses and cosy self-catering homes and a good selection of restaurants will cater for the discerning traveller.

Alternatively, anyone in search of a more unusual holiday, could stay in two of Alderney’s finest Victorian fortresses - Fort Clonque, owned by the Landmark Trust, or privately-owned Fort Corblets or the Alderney Mannez Lighthouse keeper’s cottage which has just been taken on by tour operator ‘Rural Retreats’.

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